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Czech Cup in sport climbing

TENDON supported the Czech Cup in sport climbing

Saturday the 10th April 2010 was the day on which an additional contest of the Czech Cup in sport climbing took place on the Rajče wall in Brno. TENDON was there, too.

Source: lezec.cz

Just like last year, this contest was the second selection contest for incorporation into the national team of adult sport climbers and one of the selection contests of juniors.
The registration of contestants was held between 8:00 and 9:00 in the morning. The contestants who appeared there were 5 women, of which 2 were juniors, and 18 men, of which 8 were juniors, including one of the best climbers in the world and winner of the World Cup in 2009, Adam Ondra. Two qualification routes were prepared for the climbers, one of which was identical for men and women. The contest itself started at the stroke of half past nine when the first qualification route for men was climbed by the route builder Petr Solanský and the first qualification route for women by Iva Vejmolová, our successful representative climber in the youth category.
The first qualification route for men with a difficulty of 7b+ prepared the first difficult place near the third quickdraw in form of an uncertain step, but the majority of climbers managed it without any problem. A much harder place occured just before the end of the route. Here, the climbers met a very unpleasant clicking of the last-but-one quickdraw and frequently failed to make the last two or three steps to the top.

The result was achievement of 7 tops – Martin Stráník, Petr Havrda, Tomáš Binter, Jan Chvála, Martin Klemsa, Adam Ondra and Dalibor Muráň.

The majority of female climbers managed their first route without hesitation, there were only two climbers who failed to reach the last-but-one hold which, in essence, meant clicking of the top quickdraw = top.

The second qualification route for men was classified as 7c+ and the difference was apparent from the very beginning of the contest when the first climbers started climbing. The key place was situated two quickdraws before the end. Seven climbers got over this place, of which only Martin Stráník and Adam Ondra topped. Finally, the following 13 climbers qualified for the finals:

Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Petr Havrda, Dalibor Muráň, Tomáš Binter, Martin Klemsa, Jiří Lautner, Jan Chvála, Roman Kučera, Stanislav Pekárek, Aleš Eichmeier, Martin Šifra and Petr Potěšil.

The second qualification route for women was the slightly modified route used for the first qualification of men and the increased difficulty of the route was visible also here. Only one climber succeeded in topping, Kristýna Ondrová, followed by Lucie Hrozová who finished one hold before top. The following female climbers qualified for the finals:

Kristýna Ondrová, Lucie Hrozová, Kateřina Švecová, Gabriela Vráblíková and Romana Vlasinová.

The finals brought long routes with many interesting moments not only to the climbers but also to the spectators. Climbing was done traditionally with the last climber from qualification climbing starting the contest. So, it was Petr Potěšil who was the first male climber trying to do the route. But it became obvious that the route is really very hard. The first climber failed to get over the first difficult place – a pot-like hold in one-third of the final route. This place turned out to be one of the key places as half the climbers had problems there and failed to manage the overhang that followed. An outstanding performance was given by the third climber of the finals, Aleš Eichmeier (10th-13th place in qualification), who showed that he was successful not only in the rocks. He managed perfectly not only the above mentioned difficult place but also the biggest surprise of the route – a jump between the fifth and the sixth quickdraw – and achieved the third place. Only additional four climbers got over the jump – Martin Klemsa (5th place), Dalibor Muráň (4th place), Martin Stráník (2nd place) and Adam Ondra (1st place).

The latter two climbers showed a certain distance from the rest of the climbers. Martin Stráník was able to get over a place where the climber had to climb two holds down on the structure. When climbing up again, he did not find the exact position of a hold in the hidden part of the structure and failed. As expected, the absolute winner was Adam Ondra who topped the final route and seemed not to have any big problems, maybe except for a short thought in the final step to the top.

The finals in the category of women promised a fight between Kristýna Ondrová and Lucie Hrozová, but the very well climbing junior climber Kateřina Švecová could not have been underestimated. The final route was a balanced line which tested the women especially in terms of their endurance. The critical place was an overhang which only two climbers got over. Lucie Hrozová then continued her excellent performance and topped. This topping brought her the final victory because Kristýna Ondrová did not manage the last step to the top and was placed second.

The complete results are available on www.horosvaz.cz

Not least, we want to express our thanks to the sponsors without whose support the Czech Cup contests would not make. Our thanks go to: Saltic Zlín, Tendon, Hudy sport, Rock Horn, Beal, TR walls.

Jura Čermák

„Tied up“ on e-mail with TENDON.