From crag to the mountain - Chamonix
Chamonix is the Mecca of traditional climbing for a great part of climbers. If you love mountains, perfect granite, harsher conditions and traditional climbing, there is no better place where to go in summer to train your morale.
Trident and Grand Capucin, Photo: David Bernard.
Last year, we went to Valle di Orca to train crack climbing together with our young alpinists. The destination of this year was located at a little bit higher altitude – Chamonix, Grand Capucin 3343 m above sea level. Under the leadership of experienced mountaineers Pavel “Bača” Vrtík, Honza “Stračena” Straka, Honza Zbranek and Pavel “Johnny” Jonák it was clear that it would be an interesting adventure. A group of young, by alpinism unkissed climbers got off: Ondřej Tůma, Matěj Svojtka, Tereza Svobodová and Jáchym Srb. The TENDON Team was represented by two marketing men, namely Lukáš Abt and Mikuláš Zubec.
Trident, Photo: David Bernard.
Voie Petit 8b
The main, but unconquered route by Czech juniors on Capucin was sent by Alex Huber in 2005 for the first time. Two years later, Vašek “Šatavis” Šatava and Dušan “Stoupa” Janák got over it and were appreciated by the Czech Mountaineering Federation for realizing the Ascent Of The Year. Watching this video, you can see Honza Zbranek and Ondřej Tůma attempting the key pitch – heavy corner climbing ending with a hard roof. They were able to link the moves but the final push failed unfortunately.
Ondřej Tůmy 7b, Voie Petit, Foto: Mikuláš Zubec.
Honza Zbranek 8b, Voie Petit, Foto: Mikuláš Zubec.
The young climbers spent one week on the glacier, which was enough time for perfect acclimatizing and a lot of climbing. Capucin was climbed through different routes, from 6b+ to 7b. Also Trident was sent. Several perfect days on the glacier were brilliantly recorded.