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Mára Holeček


Marek Holeček


Prague, Czech Republic
First climbing experience:

When I reached the age of four, my father came to a conclusion that I was dangerous enough to be taught a lesson and given an order in order to keep on lingering about this planet. It was caused by his earlier experience when my suicidal attempts of climbing any place and falling down of it had an escalating tendency. So I appeared on the rocks with a rope when being a toddler. My father’s feeling of victory that height gives me a fright flagged. His later attempts to flood me with other sports activities in my adolescent years in order to separate me from conquering of verticals failed as well. As it frequently happens, educational means used by my parents did not hit home.
The toughest climb you are proud of:

The word “proud” sounds overweening, so I would like to use words as “came through” or “enjoyed”.

As I was born in the Bohemian basin, I make use of the riches of our sandstone rocks. I like both “moral” routes and sport routes. The most difficult route I made on sand was RP 10c and on limestone 8b.

Grandess Jorases – N wall “Manitua”, Pakistan/Karakoram/Amin Brakk 5850 m first ascent, name of route “Czech Express” W wall, Chile/Patagonie/Cerro Central 2800 m – new variant, name of route Makarony Poritge Junction E wall, Chile/Patagonie/ Escudo 2600 m – first repeat, name of route The Dream E wall, USA/Yosemite/El Capitan – repeat of rock routes – Wyoming Wheel Ranch, Kyrgyzstan/Pamiro-Alay/Peak 4810 m first ascent, name of route “Otik’s Wet Dreams” NW wall, Kyrgyzstan/Pamiro-Alay/October 3850 m first ascent, name of route “Otik’s Victory” N wall, Nepal/Central Himalaya/Kyashar 6750 m first ascent, name of route “Ramro Chaina” SE wall, India/Garhwal Himalaya/Mt. Meru 6310 m – first ascent, name of route “Filko’s Heavenly Laughter” NE wall.

Favourite climbing area:

On sand surely the Adrspach-Teplice Kingdom, Zlebské údolí, Tisá-Ostrov, Príhrazy Rocks, Prachov Rocks – I cannot choose one of them as each region has its attraction. And as to limestone, I will not hear a word against Krabi in Thailand, in my mind it will always be connected with sun, total climbing contentment, sea bathing, enjoying long drinks.
Leisure time:

Leisure time means boredom to me. I do not like to be bored ... therefore I move.
reason why you go climbing:

I have no other skills ...
Training day:

Climbing is a lifestyle for me. So I try to climb as much as possible and to work as little as possible. A normal day means to climb as long as I enjoy it, then to calm down with a one-hour jogging.

Keep yout mind wide open, do not forget to dream and play with your imagination.
Toughest experience in the mountains:

There is no such experience, all fades and becomes pink as time goes by.


H. Bul, D. K. Scott, Ch. J. S.Bonington, but not only foreigners. For instance, the time of Joska Rakoncaj or Pepíno Nežerka is a time which is a paragon to me and which I like.
Opinion on the current mountain climbing scene:

Good. If I am always surrounded by people who enjoy climbing, then my world will revolve around them. This suffices.


To do what I like and to do my best not to bother and not to annoy my neighbouhood with it.
Plans for the future:

To become a rentier and to enjoy life ...

Chat about myself:

Nothing comes in my head. Maybe – but I do not know whether I should squeak it – I do not like to write about myself ... 

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