Greatest Achievements:
- Century Crack 5.14
- Pura Pura 5.14
- Black Mamba 5.14
- Cobra Crack 5.14
- The Kraken V13
- Most number of routes soloed in a day (550)
- Brown & Whillans speed record (sub 3hrs)
At what age did you start climbing and how?
I started climbing about 16/17yrs old through a friend at school. He was really into trad climbing and encouraged me to take part in a local climbing competition for fun. I ended up doing much better than I expected and I guess that was all the encouragement I needed!
You have been climbing for many years, what keeps you motivated for training, projects, traveling?
I think it's probably the variety of experiences that you can have climbing (it's almost impossible to get bored) and also the incredible people that you meet within the sport. I love that there's multiple 'ways' to climb all the way from indoors vs outdoors and bouldering, sport, trad and big wall. The fact that you can combine this travel around the world is really special as well, as even if I'd not been a climber, I would certainly have travelled a lot.
What do you enjoy the most right now?
I still continue to enjoy crack climbing the most, mainly because it's really rewarding to do something that you're an expert at. You get to feel those 'flow' experiences more regularly, you feel what it's like to operate at your physical, mental and technical limit and there's no barrier to age or location really.
Do you think crack climbing is on the rise? Is it becoming a more popular style of climbing?
Yes, for sure!! I actually think one of the biggest influences is the Wideboyz YouTube channel and then the community of other psyched crack obsessives that have started producing way more content and inspiring others in the last 5yrs.
You and Anna Hazelnutt were part of the team who created a new climbing area in Thailand. Where do you think there is hidden climbing potential? I mean country.
I think Asia and South America probably have the biggest untapped potential for rock climbing. They’re a bit harder to get to, the flights are more expensive, the language barrier is a bit more obvious and there’s less of a developed rock climbing culture in these regions. Personally I’d like to explore South America next, especially Chile.
Do you think that outdoor climbing is one of the most accessible sports also for developing countries?
No, I’m not sure that it is… to be honest I think climbing is relatively expensive to get into even if you’re going bouldering. The price of a pair of shoes and crash pad (which is bare minimum) is a lot of money in less economically developed countries.
When will we see you again in Adršpach?
No idea! Probably when you invite me or Pete’s up for a trip!
Which Tendon rope is your favourite and why?
Ever since I started using ropes made by Tendon, I have been fascinated by their properties. In my experience, it is almost impossible to find a rope with good maneuverability / knottability, that has also got great durability. I found this combination in the Master Pro 9.2 rope, which I used for a few weeks to practice climbing what I consider, from a sports point of view, the most difficult crack route on sharp granite in Norway called "Recovery Drink" (8c). Basically, I checked the rope every day and expected some damage, but I never found any.